Shin's future
2025.01.23 23:11 greatogshay Shin's future
I believe that Kyou Kai's fate is set after giving half her life force to Shin and will die in battle (parallels between shin and kyou kai, ou ki and kyou) before the Chu invasion or early Chu invasion leading Shin being unfocused and failing to take down Chu. Do you guys think Hara will follow this route like in history where Li Xin failed to conquer Chu and went into retirement?
submitted by greatogshay to Kingdom [link] [comments]
2025.01.23 23:11 the_great_awoo I'm so sad rn . . TXR just released early on my birthday but its blocked in Canada for some legal reason rn so I can't buy it
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2025.01.23 23:11 Witty_Heart1278 ReproductiveRights.Gov Vanished, So We Brought It Back
 | In the wake of its disappearance, theSkimm is publishing the content of reproductiverights.gov to ensure that the critical information and resources it outlined remain available to women and families. submitted by Witty_Heart1278 to Feminism [link] [comments] |
2025.01.23 23:11 Plus_Impress_2524 The fuck are we supposed to do??
I was born in Romania and I moved to Ireland when I was 3, I’m a teenager now and my mom told me yesterday that we’re getting evicted from our apartment bc the landlord didn’t bother to show up to any inspections the apartment management did so they decided to kick us out.
Now personally I don’t give a fuck where I live as long as I have space for my interests and books and shit but we’ve been looking at apartments and houses to rent and a two bedroom shoebox the size of a medium classroom is like 2,300€ per month. In a single income household that’s fucking impossible, and my mom doesn’t even have a job right now because she just quit a job she’s been in for the past 10 years that she’s always hated, she does have an interview on Monday but idk how much that position pays and if it’ll be enough and I can’t even help out because I’m not legally old enough to get a job yet.
We’re going to be staying with my uncle while we figure shit out but I genuinely don’t know what the fuck to do rn and I gotta stay positive cus if I’m stressed it’s only gonna stress my mom out and she’s been through enough bullshit as it is.
Sorry for bad writing I usually lurk
submitted by Plus_Impress_2524 to Vent [link] [comments]
2025.01.23 23:11 CombatWombat602 Looking for horror where large parts of the plot are in the main character’s head
The best example of this I can think of in Smile 2 when The main character thinks the smile demon is killing her mom but in reality it was her. Stuff like that, where you don’t know what’s real and you might be doing crazy shit and thinking something else is happening, is pretty psychologically unnerving for me, but I can’t seem to find horror movies where the plot revolves around this idea.
submitted by CombatWombat602 to horror [link] [comments]
2025.01.23 23:11 Chairman_Daniel Geforce RTX 5090 FE - Better than the 4090?
 | submitted by Chairman_Daniel to hardware [link] [comments] |
2025.01.23 23:11 Croissant2408 Amazon packages that comes with small openings. Is it a sign of delivery driver trying to snoop for valuables? Here’s two package that I received this week.
 | submitted by Croissant2408 to amazonprime [link] [comments] |
2025.01.23 23:11 Natural_Kick_6791 Level of Determination (Part 8)
 | submitted by Natural_Kick_6791 to Undertale [link] [comments] |
2025.01.23 23:11 No-Grocery3232 Post RALP radiation deadline
Husband's Dr won't do PSMA or start radiation before he hits .2. He is at .12 PSA 6 months post RALP now (up from .09 two weeks ago). Dr says to redo PSA in 6 weeks, which seems too long. Worried it will be too late to do radiation as some sources say it's no good after .4. Any advice?
submitted by No-Grocery3232 to ProstateCancer [link] [comments]
2025.01.23 23:11 MsTata_Reads Hallendale Shipment Received
 | Hey so I just switched over to LSH and received my first shipment. Since we are supposed to confirm to make sure the order is correct I had some questions. I am certain I orded and paid for the 60 mg Tier 2 treatment because I have currently been on 7.5mg. Website says its supposed to be Two 3ml vials at concentration of 5mg/0.5ml. But I received three vials that are One 2ml vial and two 3ml vials of 5mg/0.5ml which is the Tier 3 amount. Am I crazy or did they send me an extra 2ml vial? The dosage on the box states to inject 10mg. Photo attached. Any else receive more? Is this correct? I have only ever received month to month from my last pharmacy and the dosing was different. submitted by MsTata_Reads to tirzepatidecompound [link] [comments] |
2025.01.23 23:11 italianblend Looks like Sam’s Club needs a good calendar!
submitted by italianblend to samsclub [link] [comments]
2025.01.23 23:11 Speakinginflowers Selling gorgeous (never worn with tags on) Ivory Liaisons Dress (1x)
 | I bought it planning to wear it for my wedding reception, but my partner of 7 years decided to cheat on me after proposing 🙃 I’m hoping to get $300 plus shipping, I paid $325 plus tax. Let me know if there’s any photos you may need (: submitted by Speakinginflowers to SelkieCollection [link] [comments] |
2025.01.23 23:11 Low_Persimmon7856 Rate my collection
 | Scattered throughout my house, some still not set up as I run out of space! submitted by Low_Persimmon7856 to McFarlaneFigures [link] [comments] |
2025.01.23 23:11 mothershabooboo [POSITIVE] for /u/Prestigious-Demand58 [seller]
submitted by mothershabooboo to PMsFeedback [link] [comments]
2025.01.23 23:11 bil_sabab The Daily Heller: When Art is Garbage – PRINT Magazine
submitted by bil_sabab to SmorgasbordBizarre [link] [comments]
2025.01.23 23:11 Capable_Feed_5966 Chi sborra alice con me
submitted by Capable_Feed_5966 to AlicePerego [link] [comments]
2025.01.23 23:11 nespress0martini incredible improvement - hormonal IUD removal or vitamins?
i have been suffering from (what i believe to be) psoriatic arthritis for years. although my bloodwork has always come back "within range" and no doctor has been able to definitively diagnose me, the recurrent hypotheses has been that i have some form of psoriatic arthritis based on the symptoms of floating "random" swelling and joint pain that comes and goes in different parts of my body. the past 1-2 years, my finger and hand joints have been most consistently affected. fyi, the extent of the pain was enough to wake me up in the middle of the night to take painkillers, but i could still operate during the day. (note: my case is not yet serious enough to warrant biologics and i prefer to avoid medication as much as possible)
four months ago, i removed my hormonal IUD, which marked the first time in 10 years that i was off hormonal birth control. at the same time, i also started taking prenatal vitamins (which include some vitamin d), coq10, and (off and on) fish oil. the reason behind these decisions was that i learned that my AMH levels (a marker of ovarian reserve) were low, so i was warned that i might have "premature ovarian aging."
since then, my arthritis has improved dramatically. although i still have occasional joint stiffness and swelling, the extent of the swelling and pain is nothing like what i used to experience. i haven't taken a painkiller in months.
i wish i knew definitively which was the cause of my improvements.
has anyone seen a link between hormonal IUD (or other birth control) and arthritis (or other autoimmune disease)? or is it more likely to be these supplements?
submitted by nespress0martini to PsoriaticArthritis [link] [comments]
2025.01.23 23:11 Cool-Plant-4569 [QCrit]: Threefold Repetition, Upmarket Scifi, Adult, 150k
Hi everyone. I have fairly severe social anxiety regarding this sort of thing, and so refrained from posting here previously to avoid that. Instead, I attempted to just synthesize the most common advice given here, and write to that.
Well, evidently I failed at this. So now I'm here, both anxious and humbled.
I've been querying for several months, and haven't had a single full request. I am ABUNDANTLY aware that my word length (150k) is a large portion of that, even in scifi. I anticipated significant rejection on that alone - and yes, many of the rejections I've received have been explicitly state as due to wordcount. Yet I've received rejections from agents who have recently requested fulls (per querytracker) in that length range. So something else in my query package must be rotten.
So if you'd be kind enough to take a look at my query, I'd much appreciate it. Additionally, as my manuscript sits at an intersection between scifi, upmarket, and speculative fiction, I'd appreciate any thoughts you have on how I might customize it to target those agents who are not strictly scifi-focused.
As a final thought, I did struggle with how to frame this. The novel is diegetically narrated by an AI, but is told with multiple POVs. This was my best attempt to communicate that, though it takes emphasis off the human characters, and leaves out a major human POV character (the antagonist).
Any and all advice is abundantly welcome:
Dear [Agent],
THREEFOLD REPETITION (150,000 words) is an AI-narrated, multi-POV, near-future, grounded adult science fiction novel, which explores a not-so-distant future where technology offers eternal youth to all, and the personal and societal costs this entails. It features synthesis of significant and diverse world mythological elements, and will appeal to readers who enjoyed the complex AI themes of Ann Leckie’s Ancillary Justice and the intricate plotting and exploration of technology’s consequences in Liu Cixin’s The Three-Body Problem.
The AI, Atanasio, knows [Something] is wrong—a diffuse pattern he cannot quite grasp within his working mind, an equation without clear edges. Yet its meaning is clear: dread. He can neither solve nor ignore it, leading him to fixate on the loci where the dread seems strongest:
On Cassian Chandra-Kerr, a young man on the cusp of the Decision: a choice between Immortality and retaining the right to have children. When the council of his secretive Mortal enclave reveals Cassian’s missing fiancée became Immortal, tied to a conspiracy that threatens their city, Atanasio watches as Cassian is sent to find her.
On Do-yun Choi, the middling Immortal bureaucrat assigned to guide Cassian. Atanasio watches as Do-yun quickly finds himself out of his depth, pulled into both fame and unexpected danger, driven to protect his new ward.
And on Lea Rowan, a centuries-old dilettante, celebrity, and gamer, whose long-set boredom is quelled when death cultists attack a VR game premiere, slaughtering the guests and forcing her to fight for her life. Drawn into the real-world mystery, she finds herself uncovering secrets that could alter the course of history.
Atanasio watches each of these as they tug at their threads, and he interferes, tugging at his own. As their paths begin to intertwine, a threat is revealed that extends far beyond Cassian’s city. [Something] looms, its dread just out of sight, pulling them toward an inevitable and apocalyptic convergence.
[Two short setence bio] I look forward to hearing from you. Thank you for your time and consideration,
[Author name]
submitted by Cool-Plant-4569 to PubTips [link] [comments]
2025.01.23 23:11 OutrageousSun9984 I didn’t realize I had this and I need help.
I have been struggling with intrusive and obsessive thoughts. I have been diagnosed with bipolar and anxiety since 18. Overall, no significant episodes like mania or anything for over five years but a significant increase in anxiety. Especially around my relationship.
I have a great relationship. I love my partner deeply. We are engaged. We get along well. Have great chemistry. He reassures me. But I worry.
I have deep fear of abandonment and break ups. I was engaged before and my fiancé left me years ago.
I have reoccurring nightmares about my current partner leaving me. I’m my dream I’m hysterical and devastated. Sometimes I scream and cry. Then it wakes me up. I feel like shit t the rest of the day because the dreams feel so real.
If I hear someone talk about a break up. I get worried that it’s a “sign” that we will break up. The my mind starts to spiral. I worry that my dreams are also a “sign”. My brain gets obsessed. The nightmares are starting to get to me.
Please any suggestions! How do I address this?
(I also have other “themes” I worry about too so I would like some type of support in general)
submitted by OutrageousSun9984 to ROCD [link] [comments]
2025.01.23 23:11 GodButcherAura Assault & Battery
 | submitted by GodButcherAura to clevercomebacks [link] [comments] |
2025.01.23 23:11 HOHansen FDM miniatures - How I support them and some updates
 | https://preview.redd.it/3mv69g3lotee1.jpg?width=2989&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7e6fe01bfb6a9b9b0781220b107497e04cfb5af8 Hi there, and welcome. This following post is an update/overview of my newest settings I’ve found to possibly print even better miniatures. If you have not read my previous post and you want to know more, here is a link. If you don’t want to read, I suggest you copy my settings and have at it. It should work out of the box easily without fuzz. Just make sure to download Bambu Studio 1.9.7.5. It's the same version I use. Also, I use a Bambu printer, namely the A1 mini with a 0.2 mm nozzle and Bambu Lab Basic Grey filament, so keep that in mind. The general principles should be applicable to all types of printers and slicers. If you want to know how and why, then join me and read this post You won't regret it. Firstly, I’ll discuss the main subject of this post, the reason I wanted to write it; namely tree supports. If you are curious, here is a close-up of my latest print, The Lord of Tumors. I printed him standing straight up to prove what's possible, thin bits and all. I had a lot of fun painting this, and it's honestly my favourite so far. Now, supports. Oh, supports. Don’t we just love them? Jokes aside, the main hurdle for FDM printing is this one singular issue. Sure, layer heights and wall generators are important, but if we take a gander at one of our miniatures at random, they look fine. In some cases, they might even look stunning, and that’s awesome. Nevertheless, if we take a peek at the underside where the supports have been, we might be left disappointed. As the images later in this post show, the underside of an FDM print can never be perfect. Remember, there will always be a minor degree of scarring. Some are okay, while others can look like… well, not the best, if we are being completely honest. Nevertheless, there is a piece of common advice for this problem; you just angle the miniature 30 to 45 degrees backward, and the front should look great! Right?
When we are using our models for play, we will be turning and swiveling the miniatures, looking at them from both the front and the back. For tabletop games, this is a given. The front will look fine, but the scarring will, of course, be very visible on one side, no matter what. So, what can we do about it? The answer is somewhat simple, honestly. If we slice the miniature upright, we should see a massive amount of blue bits. These are the overhangs, and it is those that will be the most troublesome to look at after we have removed the supports. Now, we have to remember that support scarring is just a way of life when it comes to FDM miniatures, but if we look at some of my examples, then we should see something promising. If we angle the miniature 20 degrees backward and then 20 degrees to the left, the overhangs become MUCH more manageable. Generally speaking, this is a good sign. While there will still be islands, mid-air parts of the miniature that are not directly connected to the main model yet, the number one reason for bad undersides to FDM miniatures is overhangs. I recommend trying to angle the miniature backward and either left or right as well. Minimizing them is key. Sometimes, we are lucky, and the figure can be printed upright, which is the best-case scenario. Other times, we will need to angle the miniatures backward, maybe even a little to the left or right. It’s all about minimizing support scarring from overhangs. Overhangs, speaking in general terms, are printed filaments that are not supported by anything underneath itself. If we angle the miniature to make sure Layer height is very important to not only the quality of the outer walls, but especially the quality of the underside. Layer heights also plays a very important role in determining how many overhangs the model will have. As a general rule, a smaller layer height equals fewer overhangs. I’ve included an example of the difference between 0.04 mm and 0.06 mm layer heights. The 0.05 mm layer height is somewhere in between the two. If you have a lot of overhangs, even after we find the best angle, then minimizing the layer height might be the best option, though it will most definitely increase print times. It’s a good idea to keep this in mind when dealing with scarring. The important thing to keep in mind is, that layer heights, at this scale at least, is not as important as one might think. The difference, in real life, between 0.04, 0.05 and 0.06 mm is negligible at best. however, when we put them under very harsh lighting, say a spotlight, the layer-line-differences become somewhat apparent, though not much. Here is an example of that in the same order as mentioned, lowest to highest, left to right: Three bad blind bois.
I hate it, you hate it, we all hate it. So… is there a solution? In my time printing miniatures, I’ve struggled to find a one, but after a bit of trial and error, I finally found the main culprit to supports breaking. It’s the Tree supports themselves! Default and otherwise. Or, more accurately, the islands they generate INSIDE themselves. Difference in Base pattern. Why some supports fail during print. Note the thin walls and printing support walls in mid-air. No matter how much I tried to strengthen the outer walls, they kept breaking. It was only until I at one point tried to print some tank tracks that I saw it while my print was printing. The printer suddenly began to spew out filament inside supports for no apparent reason. I looked inside the slicer, and sure enough, the tree support generator sometimes generates small islands inside the supports. I’ve included an image showing the islands inside the supports circled in red. These islands started to print at layer 55, so there is nothing for them to hold onto. What will happen is the machine will try to print it, it will get stuck on the nozzle, and then drag it across the whole model, possibly knocking over other supports on the way. I didn’t know why, and I was completely frustrated. I searched on the internet for answers but to no avail. Most people online merely shrugged and declared there was nothing to be done about it. It’s just how tree supports work. Finally, after posting my last settings update, I was linked to a post about how to produce even better supports. As soon as I changed the settings, specifically the Base pattern setting, the default supports suddenly had infill. Finally, if I saw an island inside the slicer, I could just adjust the Base pattern spacing, until the island inside the support was supported. It works like a charm. For the past three months, I’ve only had two supports breaking mid-print, both of them were because I forgot to clean the build plate, and they didn’t adhere properly. From my findings, this is the key to stopping supports from breaking, supporting islands inside the tree supports themselves, and strengthening the supports just enough not to be too fragile or difficult to remove. It’s a tightrope, and adjusting the Base pattern spacing is crucial. You don’t want completely solid supports, but you also need to support the islands inside the supports. Usually, I set mine at somewhere between 1 mm and 1.5 mm. It should take care of most of it. Big brim best. Also, I’ve included an image showing how I adjust the brim size. The main reason for doing so is to make sure that the supports are not going to wobble or stop adhering to the build plate. If you print using a small brim that doesn’t cover all the supports, you’re a braver person than me. To make sure the supports and brim have better adhesion, I have set the first layer to be 0.2 mm in layer height. Because both the support bases and the brim are so ludicrously thick, there is basically no way for them to bend or break. Add the infill inside the supports on top of that calculation, they are as solid as they need to be. Top Z distance, layer heights, and wall generators. I have chosen to combine these things, as they individually don’t mean much, but they are important to consider when working with printing the highest possible quality miniatures. Firstly, Let’s take a look at the Top Z distance setting. It is by far the most important. In most cases, the consensus is to adjust the Top Z distance to double the layer height and you’re done. Easy, right?
Well, not quite. In reality, this setting is more important than just easy-to-remove supports. If we take a look at the included image, there’s a major difference in quality. If we remember what I wrote about overhangs earlier, this is the reason why supports are necessary. A is a Top Z distance of double the layer height. It's printed at 0.06 mm layer height and a Top Z distance of 0.12. This is the most common type of setting for most finely detailed miniatures. B is a single-layer height. As a note, I don't recommend using an odd number layer height. This one was printed at 0.05 mm layer height, and the reason for the scuffed look, from whatever I have learned by discussing this with a few mechanical- and robotics engineers about this issue, is that the motors used to move the tool head don't like it. If you are using one layer height difference of 0.04 mm, same as the layer height, the result should be somewhere in the middle of A and C, quality-wise, though a little closer to C in terms of the "look". C is merely 0.01 mm in the Top Z distance, and the layer height is 0.04 mm. This is what I would call the absolute best-case scenario, at least so far. The supports will be tougher to remove, though importantly, not impossible. I recommend this setting if you are going to print a somewhat sturdier model or miniature. As a general rule of thumb; the lower the layer height, the better the output. Nevertheless, we run into the problem of removal. A lower layer height is more difficult to handle, but it’s not impossible. If it’s a simpler model, I just set the Top Z distance to 0.01 and print. It is not difficult to remove, and because of how we angle the miniature inside the slicer, consider how much overhang we can minimize, and make sure the islands inside the supports are supported, then it’s easy as pie to handle. If the model is a slightly more complex one, then I’ll just change the Top Z distance to match the layer height. It prints a respectable output, and I can gladly live with it. I do not recommend a Top Z distance of double the layer height, though. No matter how much easier it might be to remove, the end result leaves a lot to be desired. The image should showcase the difference quite clearly. Be mindful of print times. Image shows a 50 mm miniature, and the amount of time at each layer height in mm. Here is yet another side note; I don't use interface layers. Their purpose is to make sure the model is easier to separate from the supports, but because of how interface layers work, they lead to a lot of sagging overhangs, and, paradoxically, they are also harder to remove. I just set my interface layers to 0. Also, in my last post, I discussed using hot water to remove supports. It’s a great trick, and it makes supports so easy to remove, but there’s a major flaw, and that is the heat. PLA is very easily bent when it’s exposed to anything hotter than 50-60 degrees Celsius, which is a nightmare when we are handling a miniature that has a lot of very thin bits. If we dunk a finely detailed miniature with, say, lots of thin spikes, they are almost certainly going to become bent. The easiest solution to this is rather simple. Fine-tipped tweezer, a flat-headed wirecutter or model clipper, and maybe a thin needle-like object. The tip is to work very slowly and be patient. The supports are somewhat difficult to remove at a Top Z distance of 0.01 mm, but it’s worth it to me. The only difficult parts to remove are the parts of the model that either are printed as islands or there are large surface areas that are somewhat parallel to the surface of the build plate. Again, the easiest way to handle this is to remove overhangs. The less amount of overhangs you see in the slicer, the easier are the supports to remove after we are done printing.
Lord of Tumors primed black. Printed at 0.04 mm layer height and a Top Z distance of 0.04 mm. Notice how the fingers are all still there, and that they didn't break off. Nevertheless, when we are printing a standard miniature, it’s best to use the Arachne wall generator. It has its fair share of quirks, sure, but it’s the best when it comes to printing these types of very finely detailed things. There are mainly two things to consider when we are working with this type of wall generator, namely Minimum wall width and minimum feature size. These two are the most important. In short Minimum feature size looks at the model and calculates a path for the print to use. The lower the percentage, the tighter the print will adhere to the walls of the model being sliced. Now, one of the major disadvantages of Arachne is the extrusion. It keeps changing and it can sometimes leave very fragile bits. To make sure this doesn’t happen, I’ve conceded to start my process at 100 percent the nozzle size. This will leave out details. To change that I lower the percentage by ten and slice again. The lowest feel comfortable with is 30, as it should capture all the necessary details without leading to problems when printing. You can change it as you like, but the general output is not much different from 10 to 100 percent from my testing, except for the fact that 10 percent captures a lot more detail. It depends on the model and what you're comfortable with. To change how detailed we want the path to be able to calculate, we also have to change the line width settings. I’ve noticed a lot of people have already found this out as well, which is awesome. I’ve tried to print a couple of prints at 0.18, and it turned out fine. I wouldn’t go lower than that, as the prints start to look wonky when setting it lower than 0.18 mm. I just set mine to 0.2 and leave it be. And just to be safe, don’t change the line width of the supports. It leads to horribly brittle and fragile supports if you try anything lower than 0.22, so don’t. Final notes Overall, this should leave you with some very fine prints. I also changed the cooling to be at almost 100 percent no matter what part is printed, overhang or not. All except for the first layer. I also turn on Z hop when retracting, just to be safe. I also turn down the acceleration a lot. From what I can ascertain, there are no real differences in print times. The main reason is to minimize wobble. If you are anything like me, you have your printer on the same table as your computer monitor, so a constant, insane amount of “wobbling-screen syndrome” will leave you with a headache. This is also why I have set the speeds so low. If you want a little faster print, then just leave them at stock value, though I don't recommend it. Lastly, I suggest you work from top to bottom when removing supports. Most supports are very easily removed, but some skill is required to remove the ones where overhangs and islands are supported. Try to remove every support around those areas first, and then they should be easily wiggled off. It takes some time to learn, but it is possible. Just before adding primer. Notice how I did not remove minor strings, as the primer takes care of most of it. His right arm broke, but a little super glue and a knife can fix that. Now, I hope you enjoyed reading this update. I must admit, it has been difficult for me to write it, as putting thoughts to words on this type of thing is a challenge. Compared to my previous post, this one is more akin to a “Here’s how to do this” type of post, which I’m not the biggest fan of. I far more enjoy reading posts that seek creativity, and as before, I do hope you guys use this in tandem with your own settings and modify some of it to make it even better than I could ever imagine. I’m most definitely sure that I’ve missed a few things when reading the wiki and in my experiments. If something works for you, don’t change a thing. As for now, I am pleased with where my settings are at. I don’t plan on updating Bambu Studio or switching to Orca Slicer, sadly. The main hurdle is the setting Base Pattern, which doesn’t seem to change anything in the other slicers or generate any infill in the supports. A very crucial setting. If you don’t want to downgrade to Bambu Studio .1.9.7.5, I suggest you should maybe fiddle with the Strong Trees setting, though I find them very hard to remove and they have a lot of weird artifacts that lead to the supports trying to print out in thin air, which is odd. If you have any questions at all, don’t hesitate to write. I hope you like it. submitted by HOHansen to FDMminiatures [link] [comments] |
2025.01.23 23:11 home_ec_dropout Maybe HO? Grandfather’s collection
I’m going through my family’s things. Can anyone tell me what these are? They’ve been in storage in one house or another since the 1970s or 1980s. I’m sure they are old, but are they special?
submitted by home_ec_dropout to modeltrains [link] [comments]
2025.01.23 23:11 LINKLING_S White Noise 2 [STEAM]
https://store.steampowered.com/app/503350/White_Noise_2/
Post your dumbest meme to enter. NO REPEATS. If there are duplicates then I'll enter the name of whoever posted it first. I'll close the give away in about 5 hours.
Happy meme hunting.
submitted by LINKLING_S to steam_giveaway [link] [comments]
2025.01.23 23:11 DadDilligence After 16 months, it’s a boy!
 | My wife and I started our IVF journey 16 months ago, and finally we have successfully transferred a healthy baby boy! Now we just wait 9 months! Science is so darn cool!!!! I’d say AMA, but I’m not gonna answer rude questions. Positive vibes only 🫶🏼 submitted by DadDilligence to Positivity [link] [comments] |
2025.01.23 23:11 rusakovic 📩 2025 SAMI Intern - Solutions Consulting Analyst Salary: 💰$25.00 - $30.00. 📍Remote job in 🇺🇸 United States
 | submitted by rusakovic to likeremote [link] [comments] |